Interview: the brave new world of the SPOKE

Ben Farren has an agenda. His online retailing business, specialising in the chino, is dedicated to creating good quality product and making it available to men everywhere. 

Why? "I'd wanted to do something in menswear for a while. It seems to me that the major fashion labels are so preoccupied with staying on trend and churning through 250 piece collections that they are dropping the ball on the things that matter". 

And the things that really matter to Ben: fit and price. SPOKE, Ben's brand, avoids seasonal trends by sticking to a staple item and making it worthy of your capsule wardrobe. At the moment, that item is the chino.

"We got started earlier this year. I can code (a bit), so I built a simple website while finding the talent I needed to design and make some trousers. With help, I made 50 pairs in a factory in Hoxton, sold through them quickly, and decided I was onto something".

Now onto much larger batches, SPOKEs come in a sizeable (forgive the pun) range of waist and leg variations, as well as different builds to fit men of every proportion. There's even a whole section of the website dedicated to "fit", where you can enter your dimensions and be pointed to the perfect pair of chinos for you.

"By tightly editing our range, and cutting out the retail rents and the middlemen, we can offer more sizes, and make clothes with real craftsmanship - and still beat many high street brands on price". Ben is obviously proud of his chinos, and rightly so: made of 100% Larusmiani cotton, with premium zips and buttons, there is some pretty serious work going on here.

The emphasis on quality and style over fashion also plays well with the SPOKE demographic, who Ben describes as "the 30-50-something professional who is aesthetically engaged - interested in design and cares about how he looks - but who approaches the style pages of GQ with a mixture of skepticism and bewilderment". 

And there's a bit of Ben in there too. "I guess there are ties to my own personal style...I tend to keep it pretty simple. I like sharp, modern tailoring with a twist. I think Paul Smith is a genius". And you can certainly see that Paul Smith influence coming through in some of the details such as the cotton pocket linings that are designed to complement each SPOKE shade (currently: taupe; olive; navy; maroon; grey; and black).

When discussing the future, Ben is clear that there is still plenty of room to develop and hone his craft. "We're firmly in the 'do one thing well' camp - so expect more trousers, in more fabrics: some stretch is in the pipeline, and something more technical. And we'll launch a more casual 5-pocket style in the Spring."

It is this drive for perfection (which is mixed with Ben's natural self-deprecation) that makes SPOKE stand out. "Everything is a test...Our designer Adam brings years of experience...and has some great products in the pipeline - but ultimately we'll let our customers pick the winners". 

So get picking! SPOKEs are only available at http://spokefit.com and are priced at £79.00. 

I'm Wearing: Sunday 24 November 2013

I love a half-sleeve jumper. I'm not sure why and I'm not sure they've ever really been fashionable, but nevertheless this half-sleeve navy sweat from Filippa K is always near the front of my wardrobe. Teamed with my university scarf I love it even more. And if you can guess my college colours then you get bonus points!

Jumper: Filippa K

College Scarf: University Colours

Interview: Marina Bolin of Bolin Webb

Spending time with Marina Bolin from men’s grooming design house Bolin Webb you quickly become aware of where the force and drive behind this brand comes from. Utterly professional, Marina has a passion and enthusiasm for her craft that is palpable. This is, perhaps, hardly surprising given the success of her ultra-contemporary razors, which are now on sale across Europe, North America and Asia in some of the most exclusive shopping destinations around (think Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and the Conran Shop in the UK and Nordstrom and the Museum of Modern Art, Chicago in the US, for example).

The concept for Bolin Webb’s original product, the R1 razor, came about on holiday in Switzerland, where Marina’s husband and business partner, Derrick, “looked at his old [Gillette] Mach 3 and realised there must be a better design for a razor”.

But rather than try to enter the market for the full package, which the super-brands such as Gillette really have sewn up through huge economies of scale and worldwide distribution agreements, Marina and Derrick instead decided to focus on the aesthetics and design of the razor handle. “Bolin Webb took on the challenge to bring more design inspiration into the shaving experience”, explains Marina, “our razors show spirit – curve, balance, movement – which look and feel great”.

The Bolin Webb R1

Marina claims that she and Derrick are jointly the creative and business minds behind the brand. However, Marina admits that “we each have different strengths. I am the main contact for new business and customers, while Derrick works with product design and development, and the supply chain”.

It is clear that this works well for the duo. The R1 is sleek and holds beautifully in hand. Made in the UK from automotive paint and lacquered metal with a bacteria-resistant rubber base, this really is the Porsche 911 of the razor-world. And the design is key for Marina, “design is substance. Ergonomics, robust materials and quality finish all add to the enjoyment of seeing and using the product". 

And the reaction to the R1, and its younger brother the X1 (designed to fit a Gillette Fusion Blade), has so far only been positive. Asking if Bolin Webb has had to adapt to different grooming habits across the world, Marina said that “every man has his own preference for grooming: blade, frequency of shave, style etc. We cannot say that one culture has one pattern. There is so much variety and this is what allows Bolin Webb to succeed in so many countries”.

Continued growth and international exposure are certainly top of the Bolin Webb agenda going forward. Marina cites the launch of the X1 and its striking stand in 2013 as just a taste of things to come. “We are to launch a range of grooming care products in 2014, which will provide our customers with a complete shaving experience from Bolin Webb".

I’m certainly looking forward to testing those out in the near future!

Bolin Webb razors are available online from http://www.bolinwebb.com/ as well as in stores now! Prices start at £40.00.

Product Review: Byredo, Rose Noir Bath Soap (£17.00, 100g)

Now rose is not traditionally associated with masculinity. You have a few brands trying to bring it back (Le Labo for one), but generally it’s a scent best left for the women in your life.

However, Swedish perfumer Byredo does a purely hedonistic rose scent called Rose Noir. The eau de toilette is magic, and the scent has now been captured in a bar of soap.

There’s a great, natural, nose to this product. Of course there’s a very traditional rose at its heart, but the moss and musk provide an earthy quality which is delightful. And on a Sunday evening in the bath this is fantastic to help you to unwind.

The scent left on the skin is quite mild but definitely present. For a man this is perhaps for the best. At £17.00 for 100g you're really paying at the top end of the scale. But there again you are paying for the Byredo genius, which is worth its weight.

Available at Liberty.co.uk. 

The Best: Christmas Gift Sets

We all do it. We start out with the best intentions of getting everyone on that festive shopping list the best, most unique present ever. But falling back on the good old gift set is both inevitable and, often, a very sensible idea. However, while there’s a staggering array of options out there for women, for the men in your life there’s sometimes a bit of a void in the gift set space.

On that note, below is a list of some of my favourite sets out there this year to please the different men in your life.

1. Dad

Kiehl’s, Ultimate Man Refuelling Kit (£60.00)

He’s your dad and therefore the ultimate man. So it only seems fair that the set you buy for him is called the same. And this Kiehl’s "Ultimate Man Refuelling Kit" is great. It has all the old favourite facial fuel products, plus a few samples, and comes in very manly blue and white packaging. Clearly not to get confused with the stuff in mum's cabinet!

Available at Kiehls.co.uk. 

2. Brother

Aesop x MR PORTER (£80.00)

Is bro a gym-bod? If so, then the Aesop x MR PORTER collaboration, imaginatively titled “The Athlete” and including Aesop’s Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser and Classic Shampoo, as well as the Parsley Seed Antioxidant Hydrator, might be perfect. Wrapped in a beautiful and hard-wearing case to off-handedly throw into his gym bag, this is a ideal gift for a vain sibling! 

Plus, the case is designed to take standard sized bottles of these Aesop products, so he can refill to his heart's content.

Available at MrPorter.com.

3. Boyfriend

Penhaligon’s Sartorial Fragrance Collection (£65.00)

This is for if you want him to smell like a real man(...). Cedar, black pepper, amber and neroli, and the distinctive whiff of a Saville Row tailors, then look no further than Sartorial by Penhaligon's. This year the gift set comes with a 50ml eau de toilette, 100ml Shower Gel and 75ml Deodorant stick. For £65.00 that's not half bad.

Available at Penhaligons.com. 

4. Grandfather

The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Deluxe’ Kit (£34.99)

For the cheeky grandfather who’s traditional but enjoys Pirates of the Caribbean. This set is packed full of stuff for the £34.99 price tag: a pre-shave oil; shave cream; post-shave balm; a shaving brush; and a deodorant!

Available at Tesco.

5. Nephew

Dermalogica, Breakout Clearing Kit (£23.50)

Last but not least is this set from Dermalogica, which includes products from their new Clear Start range for young skin. It includes a foaming cleanser, toner, daytime treatment oil, SPF 15 moisturiser and an overnight treatment. Travel sized, so that they can test each product out, this is great for the teen who has persistent acne and is looking for gentle treatment.

Maybe don't buy this if they're sensitive about the spots though...

Available at Dermalogica.co.uk.

In Rotation: November 2013

Changes in my routine as autumn ends and winter begins. Deeper scents for the ever-lengthening night-time - including winter rose, black pepper and frankincense - to soothe and add spice for some manly grooming.

From left to right:

Clinique: Post-Shave Soother

Byredo: Rose Noir Bath Soap

REN Skincare: Invisible Pores Detox Mask

Kiehl's: Facial Fuel Anti-Wrinkle Cream

Molton Brown: Re-Charge Black Pepper Bodyscrub Bar

Diptyque: Frankincense Scented Candle

Bluebeards Revenge: Ultimate Pre-Shave Oil

I'm Wearing: Sunday 17 November 2013

All measures to keep warm must now be taken. Including busting out the fur collar. Especially when that collar is by the legendary Dolce & Gabbana. My it's warm!

Jumper: Hartford

Rabbit: Dolce & Gabbana

Coat: Filippa K